As the most innovative watches of the year are being exhibited at Watches & Wonders 2025, Geneva once again emerged as the heart of haute horlogerie.
This year’s fair is so far a celebration of craftsmanship, accuracy, and daring reinvention, featuring everything from fashion-forward advances in color and material to legacy Maisons pushing the boundaries of mechanical intricacy.
The most talked-about releases, whether it was looking at the universe through Panerai’s Jupiterium or diving deep with Tudor’s Pelagos Ultra, communicated stories rather than just telling time.
Here, we showcase the exceptional works of art that commanded attention over the fair’s first four days:
A.LANGE & SÖHNE: MINUTE REPEATER PERPETUAL
Two of the most complex horological problems were included in the Minute Repeater Perceptual by A. Lange & Söhne.
This uncommon and ambitious combination of a minute repeater and a perpetual calendar is brought to life by a recently invented, manually wound movement.
Only 50 pieces of the intricately finished watch, which features an enamel dial made in-house, are available in the 950 platinum version.
BVLGARI: OCTO FINISSIMO ULTRA TOURBILLON
The Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon is a daring declaration of innovation rather than just a mechanical marvel.
This watch exemplifies the Swiss watchmaking arm of the Roman maison at its most audacious level, with a skeletonized tourbillon flawlessly incorporated into a mainplate that is only 1.85 mm thick.
It is the result of years of experience, pushing the limits of extremely thin watchmaking while becoming an expert in one of the most admired horological complications.
CARTIER: TANK À GUICHETS
First designed in 1928, the Tank à Guichets exemplifies the art of metamorphosis, which is a recurring theme in Cartier’s new clocks.
This year, the Maison introduces a fresh rendition of the watch, which beats to the rhythm of a newly constructed movement: the manual 9755 MC caliber with jumping hours and trailing minutes.
CHANEL: J12 BLEU CALIBER 12.1
The J12 watch’s extremely durable ceramic is elevated for the first time by a deep matte blue. The Chanel Watch Creation Studio adds a new charm to time with this distinctive tint.
It features a matte-finished, extremely durable blue ceramic with glittering baguette-cut blue sapphire indications, and is outfitted with the Caliber 12.1 self-winding Manufacture movement.
FERDINAND BERTHOUD: CHRONOMÉTRIE FB 3SPC
A very limited edition of platinum clocks that can also be set with precious stones has been added to the classic FB 3SPC series, which has a cylindrical balancing spring, in honor of Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud’s tenth anniversary.
Citation The FB 3SPC.3-1 has 18-carat white gold hands, a black PVD-treated sandblasted mechanism, and a black-varnished inner bezel and dial.
GERALD CHARLES: MAESTRO GC39 25TH ANNIVERSARY EDITION
Inspired by Mr. Genta’s 2005 GC39, Gerald Charles honors its history with a new Maestro.
This 42mm polished titanium watch has a Jumping Hour mechanism and a stunning lapis lazuli dial, Mr. Genta’s favorite stone.
It honors the Maison’s 25th anniversary with a daring blend of innovation and heritage, and it is limited to 100 pieces.
HUBLOT: BIG BANG COLLECTION
The Hublot Big Bang is one of the few watches that has had such a significant influence on the world of modern watchmaking.
In five new variants, Hublot incorporates features from the original Big Bang models and the later Big Bang Unico to commemorate the 20th anniversary of its line.
IWC: INGENIEUR AUTOMATIC 42
The first IWC Ingenieur made completely of ceramic is the Ingenieur Automatic 42. With a multi-part, pure ceramic case construction, the original stainless steel design is faithfully translated.
JAEGER-LECOULTRE: REVERSO MINUTE REPEATER TRIBUTE
The Reverso Minute Repeater, initially presented by Jaeger-LeCoultre in 1994, was a miniaturization of this difficulty.
The Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater this year has a new in-house movement, Calibre 953, and a glowing enamel dial on the front.
The mechanism’s rhythmic harmony is displayed on the back, which is a classic combination of artistic expression and mechanical skill.
KROSS STUDIO: MT 1 CHRONOMÈTRE TOURBILLION 7 JOURS
Explore the first prototype of a brand-new Kross Studio collection that reflects the creative vision of Marco Tedeschi.
With a Grade 5 titanium casing devoid of lugs, this in-house-made watch features the COSC-certified KS 7010 MT caliber, which has a 7-day power reserve and epitomizes watchmaking excellence.
LAURENT FERRIER: CLASSIC AUTO HORIZON
Echoing the essence of the Sport Auto and its longstanding association with motor racing, the Laurent Ferrier’s Classic Auto Horizon proudly bears the “Auto” caliber name.
This exquisite watch skillfully combines traditional elegance with energetic performance.
It combines design and everyday usefulness with a state-of-the-art self-winding micro-rotor movement that guarantees dependability and a useful date function.
MONTBLANC: 1858 GEOSPHERE O OXYGEN MOUNT VINSON LIMITED EDITION
Explore the newest watch in MONTBLANC 1858 collection, which honors Reinhold Messner, the legendary mountaineer.
Its design honors Mount Vinson, the highest peak in Antarctica that Messner climbed in 1986. The clock is made to last and has a number of ingenious manufacturer intricacies to get the wearer ready for their next big adventure.
It is housed in a titanium and a brand-new composite main casing that is oxygen-free.
PANERAI: LUMINOR PERPETUAL CALENDAR GMT PLATINUMTECH
This watch, which combines innovative mechanics with a striking platinum construction, is an upgraded manifestation of Panerai’s high complexities.
Its 44mm case, made of PlatinumtechTM, has a noticeable heaviness and provides improved toughness and scratch resistance.
The perpetual calendar’s complex mechanisms are clearly and precisely visible via a stunning blue sapphire crystal dial.
The day, date, and GMT functions can be easily set via the crown thanks to the user-friendly adjustment method.
PATEK PHILIPPE: CALATRAVA 8-DAY
This Calatrava stands out for its eight-day power reserve and its instantaneous day-date displays that jump at midnight. It has a Pulsomax escapement in Silinvar for its manually wound movement.
Patek Philippe’s signature guilloché hobnail pattern adorns the whole rim of the spherical white gold case-middle.
PIAGET: SIXTIE
Sixtie brings Piaget’s heyday back to life. Sixtie continues the Maison’s distinctive interpretation of timekeeping, which states that “At Piaget, a watch is first and foremost a piece of jewellery,” with its bold, free-spirited form and interplay of light and materials.
Its flowing contours and asymmetric trapeze-shaped case, accentuated by distinctive gadroons, combine 1960s boldness with modern elegance.
ROLEX: THE LAND-DWELLER
The Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller, which was introduced in 2025 and features a distinctive design and a caliber at the forefront of innovation, is a real milestone in the history of Rolex watches. Reimagining the present builds the groundwork for the future.
TAG HEUER: CARRERA DAY-DATE
The TAG Heuer Carrera Day-Date reinvents elegance with a three-dimensional dial construction, Victory Wreath symbol, and the TH31-02 movement.
Since 1860, TAG Heuer has been a symbol of cutting-edge watchmaking driven by precision, innovation, and bold design.
The Designed to Win campaign celebrates triumph in every moment, a mindset rooted in the TAG Heuer Carrera’s legacy as a timeless token of luck.
VACHERON CONSTANTIN: LES CABINOTIERS SOLARIA ULTRA GRAND COMPLICATION – LA PREMIÈRE
Presenting the 41-complication wristwatch that has ever been produced. After eight years of research, this single-piece edition is the subject of thirteen patent applications.
Vacheron Constantin combines five astronomical functions that have never been used together in watchmaking before.
The new Calibre 3655, which has 1521 parts, is set in a white gold casing that measures 45 mm in diameter and 14.99 mm in height. A real miniaturization achievement.
Stay tuned for part two of Watches & Wonders 2025!
