Paris Fashion Week FW25, shrouded in mystery, innovation, and the unmistakable pulse of couture, emerges as the City of Light loses its autumn glory and the first frost of winter lingers in the air.
Designers are back on the legendary catwalks, and each show is a conversation between tradition and revolt, the past and the future.
The season’s first statements, visions embodied in fabric, movement, and bold ideas, are shown in this first installment. The week unfolded like a cinematic sequence, with each show serving as a frame and each silhouette as a hint of what’s to come, from the grandeur of historic Maisons to the radical energy of up-and-coming names.
Our editors unravel the poetry of Paris, where fashion is a revolution woven in time, not just a matter of clothes:
ABRA
Abra FW25 is a study in contrasts, nostalgia meets modernity, structure balances fluidity. Abraham Ortuño turns personal memories into sharp tailoring and soft knitwear, creating a collection that feels both polished and edgy.
Textures are key, with pink and silver lamé adding a subtle glow and nylon faux fur adding ethical luxury. A restrained color scheme allows for measured bursts of color, while bold yet sophisticated accessories remain at the center, reinforcing Abra’s philosophy that clothing should enhance rather than overshadow.
Drawing inspiration from small-town boutiques shaped by Parisian dreams, Abra distills French elegance into something modern and confident. Femininity here is neither fragile nor excessive, just deliberate, sharp, and thoroughly thought out.
ACNE STUDIOS
The Nordic heritage of creative director Jonny Johansson serves as inspiration for Acne Studios FW25, which examines the contradiction between urban and natural settings.
The Swedish duo Front’s woven art and skyscraper sculptures on the runway reflected this subject.
The collection combines striking ’70s hues like Bordeaux red and gold with earthy tones like brown, oat, and honey. In a vision of urban escape, silhouettes reimagine traditional shapes, connecting the natural world and urban life.
ALAÏA
Alaïa FW25, directed by Pieter Mulier, draws inspiration from Dutch artist Mark Manders, representing a timeless, in-progress aesthetic.
The collection merges sculptural forms with energetic pleating and draping, incorporating hooded translucent gowns that frame the face like portraits.
Structured tailoring and fluidity are balanced by a sophisticated color scheme of mustard yellow, cobalt blue, and deep burgundy. With its roots in geography and history, the collection uses accuracy and craftsmanship to honor the strength and originality of women.
ALAINPAUL
Ballet-inspired Alainpaul FW25 reflects designer AlainPaul’s dance experience with flowing yet structured pieces.
The collection, which was shown at Théâtre du Châtelet, combines elegance and innovation with pieces like red nylon dresses, hand-knitted styles made from upcycled tights, and the Pina boots, which are modeled after pointe shoes.
BALMAIN
Olivier Rousteing embraces subtle luxury in Balmain FW25, referencing the 1950s, 1960s, and 1980s.
The brand’s typical luxury is replaced by monochromatic textures, flowing draperies, and sculptured knitwear.
Evening attire is refined by twisted pumps and delicate leathers, while animal patterns, bold hardware, and slouchy boots lend edge. Balmain’s strength is redefined in this collection with ease and elegance.
CASABLANCA
Kaizen, Casablanca’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection, is inspired by the principle of constant progress and the vast cultural differences of Japan.
Designer Charaf Tajer reflects Japan’s dualities by fusing modern and traditional aspects.
Sweats have gradient tribal motifs, while the collection’s colorful leather outerwear and padded bottoms pay homage to the Bōsōzoku biker gangs of the 1980s. Japanese business culture influences are obvious in burgundy suits and all-black tailoring. Neon rave-inspired clothing and ski-ready outfits showcase the collection’s adaptability.
The spirit of Japan’s vibrant cultural environment is encapsulated in this blend of styles.
CECILIE BAHNSEN
Cecilie Bahnsen FW25, Untitled Flowers, merges exquisite blooms with athletic utility.
North Face collaborations reinvent technical outerwear, translucent fabrics soften structure, and billowing silhouettes meet harness-like features.
A change in color scheme from delicate pinks to rich browns creates contrast and redefines romanticism with strength and pragmatism.
CFCL
According to social anthropologist Tim Ingold’s book Lines: A Brief History, which explores humanity’s linear creative forms like singing, storytelling, sketching, weaving, and walking, CFCL’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection, Knit-ware, is inspired by this work.
Designer Yusuke Takahashi considers the brand’s beginnings and reimagines the process of making clothes using just knitwear as lines.
This idea is translated into clothing with lines that curve, fold, and extend, demonstrating CFCL’s ongoing investigation of knitwear possibilities.
CHLOÉ
The Fall/Winter 2025 collection by Chloé is a conversation between the past and present, honoring tradition while embracing evolution.
Creative director Chemena Kamali explores the ever-changing identity of the Chloé woman, multifaceted, emotionally rich, and defined by contrasts.
The collection combines modernity and nostalgia, incorporating historical allusions, treasured heirlooms, and romanticized memories into modern wardrobes. Lavish opulence meets effortless ease, reflecting the fluidity of emotions and experiences that shape women over time.
At its core, Chloé embodies a balance of soft strength, femininity infused with independence, sensuality with freedom. The collection authentically captures this spirit, resonating across generations through a deeply personal connection.
CHRISTOPHER ESBER
For Christopher Esber, as past and future converge in motion, unexpected contrasts emerge, flamenco influences blend with opulent allure, indulgence and restraint converge, and brand codes become a sensory meditation as silk knots hold and embrace, suspended in light and space.
COURRÈGES
The Fall/Winter 2025 collection by Nicolas Di Felice for Courrèges explores themes of exposure and concealment by fusing the brand’s space-age legacy from the 1960s with contemporary sensibilities.
Reflecting the minimalist style of the company, the collection includes asymmetrical, geometric forms in a restricted color scheme of white, red, and black.
Additionally, Di Felice uses pieces from Italian conceptual artist Gianni Piacentino’s wardrobe, giving the collection a futuristic elegance that strikes a balance between vivid colors and expressive geometry.
DIOR
Inspired by Virginia Woolf’s Orlando, Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection for Dior explores themes of gender fluidity and metamorphosis.
By combining motifs from previous creative directors, such as Gianfranco Ferré’s white shirts and John Galliano’s J’Adore Dior T-shirts, the collection reimagines Dior’s tradition.
The designs, which combine historical and modern trends, include lace, sheer fabrics, ruffle details, and tailcoats that are neatly cut.
DRIES VAN NOTEN
Dries Van Noten’s extensive archives serve as the inspiration for Julian Klausner’s debut Fall/Winter 2025 collection, which skillfully combines historical details with modern interpretations.
The collection includes metallic oversized suits with Art Deco themes, floral devoré fabrics, tailoring reminiscent of the 1930s, and Obu belts with Eastern influences.
In addition to reflecting his love of opera and theater, Klausner’s designs introduce his distinct perspective while capturing the essence of the brand.
This first collection honors Dries Van Noten’s tradition while establishing a fresh creative direction by showcasing a peaceful conversation between the past and the future.
ISABEL MARANT
Isabel Marant’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection is inspired by a combination of bohemian attitude, masculine-feminine contrasts, and punk aesthetics.
The designs include structured coats tightened with waist belts, large leather jackets, and sculptural blazers with strong shoulders and sharp cuts.
Asymmetrical cuts and rough edges give delicate lace embellishments a rebellious twist, while lingerie-inspired pieces and sheer layering lend a seductive touch.
In keeping with a fusion of ’70s punk and ’90s grunge elements, the collection also has sheer mesh shirts, fuzzy sweaters, and punk plaids. The collection’s edgy yet elegant style is complemented by accessories including purses with D-rings, tassels, and chains.
KIMHEKIM
With elegant tailoring and flowing shapes, KIMHĒKIM’s FW25 Atelier collection, which celebrates nine years of craftsmanship, reflects on its creative path.
This season, the Maison uses delicate materials like pearls and transparent mesh, together with precise cutting and subtle draping, to reimagine traditional designs.
The soul of creation is captured in couture ensembles inspired by the Stockman mannequin, while traditional Korean clothing is modernized with creative finishing.
In keeping with KIMHĒKIM’s poetic and humorous DNA, sleek black tailoring contrasts with twisted heels that mimic draped gowns. Heritage and modern style are effortlessly combined in FW25, where ingenuity and craftsmanship coexist.
LOUIS VUITTON
Platforms for stations. The train. An enduring representation of Louis Vuitton’s heritage and the spirit of change in the twenty-first century. Impatience and expectation, love and desire, departure and return, and the thrill of discovery are among the feelings that merge at the station where the Fall/Winter 2025 collection arrives.
The collection unfolds as a voyage through style and sentiment against the legendary backdrop of L’Étoile du Nord, a hidden station that evokes the heyday of rail travel.
With L’Express, a sophisticated take on the timeless Keepall, characterized by delicate colors and graceful lines, Louis Vuitton pays homage to its legacy of famous baggage.
This season, the House collaborates with legendary electro group Kraftwerk, whose pioneering sounds shape the collection’s rhythm. The iconic Trans-Europe Express album cover adorns select pieces, infusing the spirit of movement, adventure, and innovation into every design.
MAGDA BUTRYM
Magdalena, Magda Butrym’s FW25 collection, is a personal homage to her Polish background, drawing inspiration from artists such as Magdalena Abakanowicz and traditional weaving.
The collection reinterprets Slavic expressionism through handwoven fabrics and sculptures, fusing handmade craftsmanship with contemporary silhouettes.
Signature designs that exemplify Butrym’s idea of empowered femininity include elaborate dresses and a bridal ensemble with textured pumps and a crochet veil.
MAME KUROGOUCHI
Katachi, Mame Kurogouchi’s FW25 collection, merges heritage craftsmanship with contemporary design, celebrating form and movement.
The collection’s crimson and black hues highlight sculptural silhouettes, cocoon-like dresses, and voluminous ruffled tops, while accessories echo organic shapes with sculptural leather bags and petal-like earrings.
The collection draws inspiration from traditional Japanese lacquerware and Suminagashi marbling, translating fluid forms into fabric.
MCQUEEN
McQueen’s FW25 collection gives dandyism a contemporary, rebellious twist. It combines Victorian Gothic norms with tactile grandeur, drawing inspiration from the radical spirit of Romaine Brooks, Vesta Tilley, and Oscar Wilde.
Tall pleated collars, pointed, elongated boots, and sculpted tailoring clash with flowing silks, textural lace, and raw-edged flowers.
Gold bullion cloaks, crystalline masks, and sharp Philip Treacy hats are examples of dramatic decoration that alternates between concealment and spectacle. Technical performance materials clash with ancestral jewels, while mirrored tailcoat parkas reflect the excitement of London.
Lace and leather are intricately embroidered with metal-studded sunflowers and crystal ribcages. Crystal-encrusted jewelry with a Victorian feel, polished metal spheres, and sculptured crossbody bags are examples of accessories.
With pointed Corvax boots, mules, and Oxfords in patent leather and lace, footwear embodies McQueen’s irreverent craft while sharpening tradition.
OFF-WHITE
In defiance of contemporary obstacles, Off-White FW25 honors the strength of community, diverse individuals bound together by self-expression and common ideals. This spirit of resistance is emphasized by the title and setting of the show.
The collection reinterprets uniforms as symbols of resilience rather than conformity, drawing inspiration from Ib’s early years. Humble materials convey inclusion, but strong shoulders convey defiance. A punk attitude infuses the designs, rejecting imposed conformity.
Form and function are pushed by architectural incisions, hybrid architectures, and striking textures. While accessories have own regulations, footwear combines fashion and functionality.
The SANDBAG, the season’s highlight, turns industrial functionality into a surprising fashion statement.
RABANNE
Julien Dossena’s Rabanne FW25 collection explores the tension between holding on and letting go, balancing structure with fluidity and restraint with opulence.
Modern fur is both enveloping and untamed, seen in voluminous coats and kinetic skirts, while classic wools and coated cottons redefine boundaries with bursts of fur, reflective surfaces, and layered deconstruction.
A bold pill-print suit disrupts a rich palette of apricot, green glass, burgundy, and deep blue, mirrored in menswear’s tailored layers of leather and fur.
Delicate contrasts emerge in metal mesh, lace, and sheer overlays atop leather and wool dresses. Combat boots anchor the looks, while shimmering socks with Mary Janes nod to grunge nostalgia.
A vintage key worn at the neck becomes a symbol, of protection, secrets, or unlocking the unknown.
SCHIAPARELLI
Through structured tailoring, intricate tooled leather, and accessories that resemble beaten copper, Schiaparelli’s FW25 collection, Lone Star, explores the duality of modern femininity, strength and softness, austerity and extravagance.
Inspired by Daniel Roseberry’s Texan roots, the collection combines cowboy motifs like silver-buckled belts and laced leather with ethereal elegance, fusing feminine and masculine elements.
Roseberry draws inspiration from the women in his life to create a wardrobe that embodies empowerment through contradiction.
STELLA MCCARTNEY
The FW25 collection by Stella McCartney’s Laptop to Lapdance, reinvents the wardrobe of the professional woman by skillfully fusing evening glitz with business attire.
The collection, which explores both masculine and feminine stereotypes, is made entirely of cruelty-free, 96% conscientious materials.
Models carrying the third issue of Stella Times, which is set in an imaginary STELLA CORP office, highlight novelties such as YATAY M, a mycelium-based substitute for exotic leathers.
’80s influences are modernized with power shoulders, nipped-in tailoring, and draped silhouettes, while neutral khakis and greys are punctuated with lipstick red.
A plant-based sequin called Sequinova makes its debut on minidresses, becoming the first sustainable adornment in history.
THE ROW
With flowing shapes, loose cuts reminiscent of menswear, and delicate tailoring tweaks, The Row’s FW25 collection elevates simple luxury.
The brand’s distinctive style is further enhanced by draped tailoring, double-layered jackets with exposed linings, and rounded sleeves. Accessories include lug-sole derbies, rounded square-toed pumps, and canvas totes with leather trim.
Models walked barefoot and were showcased in a private, phone-free environment, highlighting comfort and craftsmanship. The collection adheres to The Row’s subtle sophistication by skillfully fusing modernity with classic elegance.
TOM FORD
Haider Ackermann’s debut at Tom Ford combines the intimacy of the morning after with the charm of Ford’s nightlife. The collection evokes mystery and desire in a grey room with soft benches and steamy mirrors.
Pastel colors give suits and dresses a new look, while androgynous silhouettes accentuate crisp tailoring and fluid comfort. These colors are reflected in powdery eyeshadows, yet Tom Ford’s trademark black and gray are still present.
There is a subtle T that runs through accessories like a secret signature, and minimalism rules—decor gives way to structure.
Excess is removed the next morning, leaving behind impressions, feelings, and red lips from a passionate night.
UMA WANG
Inspired by Piero della Francesca’s Madonna del Parto, Uma Wang’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection explores femininity via fluid forms and sculptured dimensions.
In addition to twisted torsos and bent pant legs that redefine grace, the collection includes voluminous, cushioned hoop skirts that are reminiscent of Renaissance painting.
Earthy moderate hues and luxurious materials like damask and double-faced cashmere add depth and story to the collection.
Accessories that combine historical and modern features, such as floral headscarves and sculptured silver jewelry, create a classic yet contemporary look.
WEINSANTO
Complètement Givrée, Weinsanto’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection, is based on a fantastical depiction of a winter wonderland. The collection blends structure and sensuality with its avant-garde evening wear, miniskirts, and corseted styles.
With prints inspired by the aurora borealis, the color scheme consists of deep blacks, blues, metallic greys, and cold whites. Among the most notable pieces are iceberg-like translucent white gowns with corset boning.
The collection’s whimsical and sophisticated aesthetic is further enhanced with accessories like big sunglasses, berets, and long gloves that go well with the outfits.
Stay tuned for part two of our PFW FW25 runway report!
