The last four days of Paris Fashion Week FW25 were a master class in creativity, artistry, and tradition.
The runways were a collision of the past and the future, of subtlety and spectacle, with both avant-garde designers pushing limits and established Maisons honing their traditions.
Designers embraced the changing fashion trends, with some confirming the value of excellent craftsmanship and others delving into radical deconstruction.
In this final phase of PFW FW25, Sacai broke the boundaries between structure and fluidity, while Miu Miu continued their whimsical yet thought-provoking investigation of femininity.
Pierre Cardin updated the space-age history of classic tailoring for the contemporary era, while Rokh dismantled it with a rebellious spirit. In the meantime, Ottolinger combined devastation with unadulterated sensuality, and Y/Project defied convention with its own subversive layering.
Akris provided subtle luxury with a calm assurance, whereas Ludovic de Saint Sernin emphasized intimacy. Here’s a look at the best of the runways:
AKRIS
Akris’ Fall/Winter 2025 collection by Albert Kriemler addresses the blue hour, the short twilight between day and night. Inspired by artist Alyson Shotz, cyanotype prints reference building designs, giving depth.
A rich blue hue conjures both seriousness and sensation, while cozy textures like wool plaid and silky maxi cord heighten the feeling of warmth.
ANN DEMEULEMEESTER
The Fall/Winter 2025 collection by Stefano Gallici for Ann Demeulemeester explored themes of personal journey and inquiry. The collection’s worn, lived-in look, which reflected a very personal connection to the clothing, was inspired by untamed landscapes and a spirit of wanderlust.
The designs captured the sense of both roughness and fragility while balancing the brand’s distinctive grunge components with a sophisticated grace.
ATLEIN
Drawing inspiration from Brancusi’s sculptures and ancient Venus figurines, ATLEIN’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection highlights natural curves and structure through the sculpting of clothing.
The backbone is made up of military-inspired coats and precisely cut jackets, while the rounder shapes of Brancusi are echoed by baggy parkas and down jackets.
Sharp daywear silhouettes include asymmetrical straight-leg pants, large wool coats, and sculpted shoulders. The sophisticated black, grey, brown, and khaki color scheme of the collection prioritizes construction above adornment.
Italian Milano jerseys and Japanese cotton add a fleece-like texture to tailored pants and working jackets.
Blending art and fashion, the collection reimagines wearable sculptures that honor the female form.
BALENCIAGA
Balenciaga’s FW25 collection emphasized wearability, precise tailoring, and subtle elegance. Demna eschewed theatrics in favor of business wear with minute details like wrinkles, moth holes, and oversized proportions. The minimalistic outerwear included long sweaters, puffers, and large denim jackets.
The quiet presentation, which was set to Beethoven’s Moonlight Sonata, highlighted functionality and signaled a change in the brand’s mission.
COMME DES GARÇONS
In order to convey femininity, strength, and hope, Rei Kawakubo used exaggerated and deconstructed forms in the Fall/Winter 2025 collection for Comme des Garçons.
The collection defied conventional fashion conventions with its voluminous, abstract shapes, which included geometric gowns with wide-brimmed hats and pinstriped materials that were sculpted into flowing ruffles.
With damaged textiles and elaborate layering creating a sense of deconstruction, a recurring subject in her work, Kawakubo’s designs carried on her investigation of deconstruction.
The collection’s theatrical presentation was further accentuated by Takeo Arai’s black and flaming red wigs, which were inspired by hair peculiarities of the 18th century.
COPERNI
Coperni’s FW25 collection combined fashion with early internet culture, drawing inspiration from LAN parties in the 1990s. With 200 gamers, designers Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant turned the runway into a gaming battleground.
Couture sleeping bag gowns with built-in corsetry, tapestry prints created using on-demand technology, and anime-inspired sailor attire with five-finger ballerina shoes were among the looks.
The collection honored the combination of contemporary femininity, technology, and nostalgia.
DURAN LANTINK
The FW25 Duranimals collection by Duran Lantink featured zebra-print pony hair, repurposed cowskin from LVMH deadstock, velvet leopard, and reworked snakeskin.
Camouflage and plaid clashed in unexpected ways, and custom footwear was introduced in a collaboration with Sergio Rossi.
The show featured a unique soundscape by Frédéric Sanchez, with Parisian choristers performing an avant-garde a cappella piece as models passed. Lantink’s creative approach and eye-catching designs made it a highlight of Paris Fashion Week.
ELIE SAAB
With its rich materials, burnished hues, and voluminous designs that move from city salons to sunny slopes, Elie Saab FW25 captures the opulent charm of upscale mountain resorts.
Après-ski glamour is characterized by a color scheme of midnight black, powder white, pine green, burgundy, and brown. Butter-soft leggings go well with plush fur jackets, cropped tuxedo pants look great with embroidered midi-skirts, and woven cashmere and sequins have snow-capped patterns. Two standout items are a bright yellow parka and a stylish jumpsuit.
The chilly elegance of evening wear is embodied by beaded tiers that resemble glacial waves and silk corsets that flow into mermaid lace.
Fur purses and Wave collection additions finish the ensemble, while accessories like fur-trimmed boots and Alaskan hats add to the mountain vibe.
The collection epitomizes carefree high-altitude splendor through a fusion of classic workmanship and contemporary femininity.
GABRIELA HEARST
Drawing influence from classic tailoring and architectural precision, Gabriela Hearst’s FW25 collection struck a balance between sustainability and exquisite craftsmanship.
Durability and elegance were highlighted by the use of sculptural silhouettes, elaborate handiwork, and luxurious natural fibers.
A dedication to conscientious luxury was demonstrated by the use of rich earthy hues, tailored outerwear, and flowing skirts that effortlessly combined femininity and strength.
GIAMBATTISTA VALLI
Giambattista Valli’s FW25 collection, with its long silhouettes, elaborate embroidery, and sumptuous jacquards, captures the free-spirited atmosphere of the late 1960s.
Luxurious fabrics combine with floral, paisley, and graphic ikat motifs to create a balance between tradition and contemporary.
The collection maintains Valli’s distinctive romanticism while exhibiting a restless, culturally open mindset.
GIVENCHY
Drawing inspiration from the calico patterns featured in Hubert de Givenchy’s 1952 debut, Sarah Burton’s inaugural Givenchy FW25 collection recreated the house’s history.
Delicate strapless dresses, structured fishnet dresses, and sleek leather ensembles modernized archival shapes, fusing traditional elegance with a modern twist.
HERMÈS
Hermès FW25 combined contemporary elegance with equestrian tradition to create an emphasis on subtle luxury.
Rich leatherwork, flowing lines, and sleek tailoring highlighted carefree elegance. The house’s classic approach to understated sophistication was highlighted by its warm, earthy color scheme and superb craftsmanship.
ISSEY MIYAKE
Erwin Wurm’s reimagining of commonplace items serves as the inspiration for Issey Miyake’s FW25 collection, which was directed by Satoshi Kondo.
The collection’s four main themes, Abstract Concrete, Body Object, Nature Fabrication, and Clothing Sculpture, challenged preconceived notions while examining the relationship between the body and clothing.
This combination of fashion and art encourages a new understanding of the relationship between clothing and the human body.
JUNYA WATANABE
The combination of geometric art and punk aesthetics serves as the inspiration for Junya Watanabe’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection, which presents a futuristic take on fashion.
With designs that subvert conventional forms and reinterpret iconic Americana through a Cubist perspective, the collection showcases structural creativity.
Watanabe’s work demonstrates a skillful fusion of avant-garde artistry with raw tradition through her excellent use of fashion origami.
KENZO
Drawing inspiration from Andy Warhol’s pop sensibility, Nigo’s diverse design philosophy, and Kenzo Takada’s cheerful luxury, Kenzo’s FW25 womenswear collection for Kenzo reinterprets the house’s history with humorous contrasts.
With double-breasted tuxedo jackets, cropped bombers, selvedge denim, and silk camisoles combining structure and softness, masculine tailoring meets feminine elements.
Prints, embroidery, and soft hooded jackets all include the graphic motifs Lucky Me and Lucky You, two bunnies based on a 1979 Kenzo Takada drawing. Punkish khaki hues, gingham Harris tweeds, and archival floral designs provide depth, while a hand-embroidered parka honors the Kenzo atelier crew.
Satin bowling bags, New Era caps, crystal-pavé belt buckles, and redesigned slingback mules with an archive vibe are examples of accessories.
The collection’s blend of tradition and contemporary is furthered by fine details like mother-of-pearl buttons and pink selvedge seams with hidden heart designs.
LACOSTE
Inspired by founder René Lacoste’s active lifestyle, Lacoste’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection blends the brand’s athletic heritage with elevated elegance. Creative Director Pelagia Kolotouros reimagines classic pieces, introducing structured knits and hybrid designs that emphasize both comfort and sportiness.
The collection features high-performance textiles and luxurious materials, with modernized tracksuits, technical trench coats, and opulent wool coats offering comfort and sophistication. Embroidered jeweled patches, inspired by Lacoste’s personal tournament medallions, adorning various pieces, adding a touch of heritage to the contemporary designs.
Lacoste successfully combines tradition and modernity this season, setting a new standard for contemporary fashion that pays homage to its illustrious past while looking to the future.
LEONARD PARIS
With a focus on nomadic ideas and Asian aesthetics, Leonard Paris FW25 imagines a contemporary traveler wearing laminated jersey trench coats that combine desert and urban elements.
The collection experiments with rigid outerwear over flowing forms and small and maxi volumes. Pleated leather-effect jersey, silk twill, and glossy patent are among the materials used; embellishments include rhinestone flower embroidery and buttons set with semiprecious stones.
The warmth and refinement of the collection are further enhanced by a rich palette of gold, chocolate, lichen, pistachio, burgundy, and ivory.
LUDOVIC DE SAINT SERNIN
Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection, which combines late-night edginess with corporate sharpness, is inspired by Helmut Newton’s classic pictures.
The line includes body-skimming dresses and pencil skirts in Glen plaid and pinstripe wool that go well with both business and casual settings.
A new take on modern fashion is provided by this combination of classic professional attire with a dash of insurrection.
MARINE SERRE
The FW25 collection by Marine Serre combined heritage and sustainability by repurposing deadstock textiles to create contemporary silhouettes.
Alongside elaborate jacquards and quilted textiles, signature crescent-moon designs emerged, fusing aspects of couture, athletic, and workwear.
Her dedication to environmentally conscious luxury was furthered with upcycled leather, patchwork denim, and deconstructed tailoring, while the collection’s elegant yet rebellious look was influenced by historical French workmanship.
MIU MIU
Miu Miu FW25 combined polished sophistication with carefree ease to explore the conflict between elegance and dishevelment.
Layered style and off-kilter proportions emphasized spontaneity, while frayed knitwear, sheer slips, and tailored coats reflected a lived-in glamour.
Delicate decorations and accessories with a vintage feel gave it a charmingly nostalgic yet rebellious feel.
NINA RICCI
Nina Ricci’s FW25 collection by Harris Reed uses sultry materials like animal-print velvet, black satin, lace, and faux-fur stoles to evoke Parisian romance.
On draped day dresses, a monogrammed ‘NR’ print makes its debut alongside a sophisticated black, white, and jewel tone palette.
Silk headscarves, tasseled velvet ribbons, vibrant aviator sunglasses, and a cowhide-printed reimagining of a 1996 top-handle bag are examples of accessories.
ROKH
ROKH’s FW25 collection combined structural forms with unexpected cutouts, layering, and asymmetry to deconstruct traditional tailoring with a rebellious edge.
There was a conflict between refinement and deconstruction as raw finishes and experimental styling were used to rethink classic textiles like leather and wool. The collection defied expectations while retaining sophistication and emanated an unpolished grace.
SACAI
Sacai’s FW25 collection used sportswear, tailoring, and military motifs to examine the relationship between deconstruction and hybridization.
Chitose Abe used multilayer constructions, huge proportions, and surprising fabric juxtapositions to reinvent traditional styles. Traditional menswear, such as blazers and trench coats, was reimagined with feminine fluidity and functional elements.
By embracing contrast, the collection managed to strike a balance between ease and structure.
SAINT LAURENT
Saint Laurent FW25 embraces simplicity, with precise construction and sharp silhouettes defining the collection; plenty of leather blousons and stone-washed skirts create ambiguity, while a rich yet succinct palette reinforces clean lines; fabrics take on new textures, stretch paired with guipure, distressed couture materials, and silicone-treated silk prints; minimalist looks are contrasted with rock crystal jewelry, a nod to Yves Saint Laurent’s favorite lucky stone; and the collection is set against a grand onyx oval, reflecting depth and raw elegance.
During these last days, Paris solidified its standing as the center of fashion, a city where innovation and tradition coexist and where each collection is more than just a piece of apparel but a glimpse of the future.
VALENTINO
Le Méta-Théâtre Des Intimités, Valentino’s FW25 show, used a surreal, Lynchian-inspired runway in a public lavatory to explore intimacy and exposure. Using lace bodysuits, fur jackets, flared wool pants, and striking pearl jewelry, Alessandro Michele combined modern and vintage fashions.
Checkerboard sneakers with Valentino insignia were launched via a Vans partnership, fusing streetwear and elegance. Additionally, 16-year-old trans model Kai Schreiber made his runway debut during the show.
Modern luxury was redefined by Michele’s distinctive maximalism, which featured striking accessories and layered ensembles.
VICTORIA BECKHAM
With crisp tailoring, flowing lines, and a subdued yet elegant color scheme, Victoria Beckham’s FW25 collection further enhances her distinctive elegance.
Delicate translucent materials juxtapose with structured outerwear, and feminine draping meets menswear-inspired tailoring.
Modern femininity and serene luxury are emphasized by delicate embellishments and precise cuts.
VIVIENNE WESTWOOD
Inspired by London’s diverse culture, Andreas Kronthaler’s FW25 collection for Vivienne Westwood combined historical opulence with punk rebellion.
The collection honored Westwood’s rebellious spirit while embracing modern elegance, combining exaggerated Renaissance silhouettes with modern tailoring, intricate patterns, and sustainable materials that reinforced the brand’s eco-conscious ethos.
YOHJI YAMAMOTO
The FW25 collection by Yohji Yamamoto embraces asymmetry and fluidity while experimenting with deconstruction, layering, and fabric manipulation.
Bold colors, geometric shapes, and experimental patterns are examples of abstract art inspirations.
Long overcoats and hefty jackets are examples of thick, quilted outerwear that continues to be a major focus. His trademark dark color scheme predominates, but deep purple tones create a dramatic contrast.
ZIMMERMANN
Zimmermann’s FW25 collection, which drew inspiration from antique grandeur and handcrafted craftsmanship, combined modern beauty with sentimental nostalgia.
A somber, fall color scheme permeated the rich materials, flowing shapes, and elaborate lace. A feeling of ethereal femininity was generated by the delicate flowers, gilded accents, and dramatic drapery, which skillfully combined refinement and playfulness.
