As New York Fashion Week FW25 approaches its halfway point, the runways have already provided a dynamic mix of invention, nostalgia, and boundary-pushing style.
Designers are setting the tone for the coming season with bold reinterpretations of classic tailoring, as well as surprising textures and silhouettes.
With only a few days left, we take a deeper look at the collections that have defined the first half of New York Fashion Week, highlighting rising trends, notable moments, and the creative forces driving what comes next in fashion:
ALICE + OLIVIA
Alice + Olivia’s FW25 collection at NYFW draws inspiration from Shakespeare, fusing Elizabethan splendor and modern femininity.
Stacey Bendet reinvented the Bard’s world with rich brocades, corseted bodices, and elaborate needlework to capture the drama and romance of his works.
Billowing sleeves, velvet capes, and pearl embellishments evoked historical costumes, while sharp tailoring and vibrant designs offered a modern twist.
The collection used deep jewel tones, airy lace, and rigid forms to bring Shakespearean heroines to life in wearable, storytelling-driven pieces. A blend of history and present, it demonstrated that fashion, like Shakespeare, is timeless.
ALTUZZARA
Joseph Altuzarra’s Fall 2025 collection explored character dressing with a touch of elegant romance. Inspired by everything from the 1930s to Princess Leia, the collection combines precise tailoring with fun quirkiness.
Outerwear stood out, with voluminous capes and elegant shearlings. Dresses ranged from delicate botanical designs to aggressive body-con silhouettes, with whimsical details like fringe skirts, gumball-studded sweaters, and crystal skull helmets adding drama.
Altuzarra’s rental service has also helped develop his vision, allowing for more grandiose runway looks. “People love cosplay,” he said, noting that 85% of renters eventually buy.
ANNA SUI
Anna Sui’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection, Madcap Heiress, is inspired by glamorous 1940s socialites such as Barbara Hutton, Doris Duke, and Peggy Guggenheim, as well as pin-up idols Bettie Page and Dita Von Teese. The collection combines richness and eccentricity, with rich textures like Mongolian fur and tweeds.
Pat McGrath created a strong, dimensional cat-eye look that reflected a rebellious yet elegant personality, while hairstylist Garren channeled high-energy pin-up style with bumper bangs and victory rolls, utilizing curling irons, Velcro rollers, and flexible hairspray to get a polished yet fun appearance.
ASHLYN
Ashlynn Park’s Fall 2025 collection, inspired by the persimmon fruit’s hardiness, was a bold statement about her brand identity.
Her typical combination of masculine and feminine designs was evident in structured outerwear, flowing slacks, and cropped jackets. Each piece was minimal yet painstakingly crafted, with an emphasis on comfort of wear.
Key styles were the adaptable persimmon pant and an updated version of her successful puzzle designs, highlighted by a stunning red peplum top and loose jersey pants. The collection reinforced Park’s craftsmanship and expanding design philosophy.
BRANDON MAXWELL
Brandon Maxwell kicked off New York Fashion Week with a daring take on American sportswear, commemorating his decade in fashion.
Maxwell adopted a confident new perspective and switched from a look-by-look approach to a wardrobe-driven strategy, building on the success of his pre-fall collection.
Pinstripe button-downs, fluted midi skirts, slouchy track-style pants, animal print ribbed maxidresses, and eye-catching outerwear were among the key pieces.
Inspired by Robert Mapplethorpe’s leathers and 1950s menswear tailoring, the collection aimed to strike a balance between sharpness and wearability.
CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION
Calvin Klein returned to New York Fashion Week with the Fall 2025 Collection, which featured Veronica Leoni’s debut as Creative Director.
The collection, which embraces monumental minimalism, reimagined wardrobe mainstays including fitted coats, silk blouses, structured handbags, and a CK One clutch.
Weightless tailoring and gentle draping were used to create a balance of accuracy and fluidity, with rich fabrics like cashmere and satin adding depth. A basic palette of black, moongrey, and off-white was accented with vibrant barolo and raspberry.
The tiny display, which took place at Calvin Klein’s historic headquarters, mixed the brand’s past with a new vision, confirming its timeless identity.
CHRISTIAN SIRIANO
Christian Siriano’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection was inspired by sleek automobile design, combining futurism with fashion. Metallic fabrics, dramatic silhouettes, and accents inspired by oil slicks and tire tracks brought the idea to life.
An all-red runway placed against a parked Toyota emphasized the link between high-performance vehicles and high-fashion events. The collection’s color scheme of red, blue, black, and bronze reflected the sleek style of luxury autos.
Siriano sought to connect the realms of automotive innovation and couture, suggesting analogies between iconic red automobiles and red carpet glamour.
CHRISTOPHER JOHN ROGERS
Christopher John Rogers’ Fall/Winter 2025 collection, titled Exhale, marks his return to New York Fashion Week following a five-year absence. The collection is inspired by Angela de la Cruz and Hélio Oiticica, two artists recognized for pushing creative boundaries.
This influence can be seen in Rogers’ use of traditional American textiles, such as matte cotton piqués and wool tailoring, which he reinvents in novel ways.
The collection incorporates his distinctive colorful stripes on a variety of pieces, including knits and silk taffeta gowns. Rogers’ designs strive to promote individualism and self-expression by combining expressive event clothing and vibrant, playful daywear.
KIM SHUI
Kim Shui’s Fall 2025 collection was influenced by Italian artist Monica Bonvicini’s leather belt creations. Instead of utilizing genuine belts, she recreated the notion with laser-cut pleather, resulting in dramatic fringed motifs on tops and pants.
Shui combined her Chinese and Western traditions, using features such as faux fur trims on formalwear and frog button closures, which represent riches and success. This season, she concentrated on control and precision to keep her characteristic seductive designs secure and wearable.
PRABAL GURUNG
Prabal Gurung’s Fall 2025 collection, Walk Like a Girl, takes inspiration from his upcoming memoir, weaving personal storytelling into fashion.
Capturing the essence of New York City at dawn, where early risers and late-night revelers cross paths, the collection explores contrasts between masculine and feminine elements.
Elongated men’s shirting, pleated and washed fabrics with a lived-in feel, and intricate embroidery alongside voluminous floral appliqués reflect this duality. Gurung celebrates women who move through life with confidence and freedom, balancing strength with softness.
SIMKHAI
Jonathan Simkhai’s fall collection was inspired by a vintage brooch he discovered at the Pasadena Rose Bowl flea market, prompting him to think on the stories behind old items.
This resulted in a blend of nostalgia and modernity, with giant leather jackets over frayed knits, worn-in moto boots, and sparkly brooch embellishments over warm yet refined designs.
The collection combined rough and sophisticated elements, such as crystal-encrusted tanks, tattered-edge knits, and structured outerwear with cascading embellishments.
Set against the backdrop of the New York City skyline at nightfall, it portrayed Simkhai’s notion of clothes as both a shield and a storyteller.
TODD SNYDER
Todd Snyder’s Fall 2025 collection, designed in partnership with Woolrich, draws inspiration from volcanic landscapes, celebrating nature as a muse.
The collection combines environmental ideas with urban flair, reimagining heritage objects for modern functionality.
Highlights include a redesigned Woolrich buffalo check shirt designed in collaboration with Italian mill Majocchi to reflect light in a unique way, as well as commando-style field jackets and utility pants made of precisely treated moleskin.
The end product is a combination of military and country sports aesthetics, with a tough yet sophisticated appearance.
Stay tuned for more highlight from the final three days of NYFW FW25!
