Paris’ first Modest Fashion Week took place last month at the elegant Hôtel Le Marois, bringing together more than a dozen designers from across the globe. Each presented collections built around a shared premise: fashion that conceals, rather than reveals, the body.
The event drew attention not only because of Paris’ undisputed standing in the luxury fashion landscape – signalling a new level of legitimacy for modest fashion designers – but also because of France’s long-standing resistance to faith-based dress.
One standout runway moment, featuring a beret worn over a headscarf, presented by Senegalese label Nour Turbans, captured the spirit of the event perfectly: European sensibilities and Muslim dress codes need not be at odds.
BEFORE IT WENT GLOBAL
Of course, what can be dubbed as modest fashion predates the Paris showcase. In 2015, UK-based designer Hana Tajima launched a line of lightweight hijabs and loose-fitting tunics in collaboration with Japanese retail giant Uniqlo – marking one of the first major mainstream entries into the space.
LUXURY STEPS IN
Luxury houses soon followed. Dolce & Gabbana released its first abaya collection in 2016, complete with lace trims, intricate embroidery and bold prints. Around the same time, Oscar de la Renta unveiled a Ramadan capsule spotlighting modest eveningwear, while Michael Kors introduced a floral kaftan-and-hijab look in its Spring 2019 collection.
FROM NICHE TO HIGH STREET
Sportswear and high street brands soon joined in. Nike launched a line of performance hijabs in 2018, while retailers such as Marks & Spencer and ASOS now offer dedicated modest ranges – from patterned headscarves to flowing maxi dresses and billowing blouses.
While the purchasing power of Gulf markets has undoubtedly helped drive the movement, the appeal of modest fashion now extends far beyond a single demographic.
MORE THAN MODESTY
“Many women, even those without religious motivations, are choosing modest clothing because it aligns with how they feel safest or most comfortable,” explains Dr Samreen Ashraf, researcher and lecturer at Bournemouth University.
“In a world of constant visibility, social media scrutiny and unrealistic beauty standards, modesty can act as a form of protection – both emotional and physical,” Ashraf added.
For others, the movement signals a step toward greater inclusivity. Fatou Doucouré, founder of fashion label Soutoura, told the BBC that she had struggled to wear the hijab in France, but presenting her work in Paris made her feel that veiled Muslim women “could take on any role in any society.”
THE BACKLASH
Critics, however, remain unconvinced. Some raise concerns around gender politics. In a widely shared post on X, writer and feminist activist Jean Hatchet described the event as “covering women up week,” calling it “a very dangerous route.”
“I take it men aren’t taking part in Modest Fashion Week?” one user commented. “Yes—they are the unseen modesty police,” Hatchet replied, implying male control.
Others dismiss the aesthetic altogether, arguing that modest dressing lacks the drama and creative edge traditionally associated with high fashion.
HERE TO STAY
Love it or loathe it, modest fashion has firmly entered the mainstream, and shows no signs of fading. And, as far as we’re concerned, feminism at its core is about choice – and who doesn’t want a broader, more expressive wardrobe to choose from?
