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Milan Fashion Week: The Runway Report Continues

Our editors compile final statements and bold visions from the FW25 exhibition at MFW

Milan Fashion Week: The Runway Report Continues
Marni FW25

The runway continues to offer a remarkable blend of traditional craftsmanship and contemporary reinterpretation as Milan Fashion Week came to an end.

Bold experiments with texture and shape, elaborate details, and unexpected silhouettes, designers pushed the envelope.

The last performances cemented the season’s distinguishing themes, effortless luxury, dynamic contrasts, and a profound respect for Italian savoir-faire, if the earlier half of the week had established the scene.

The second part of Milan’s showcase demonstrated that innovation and tradition can coexist harmoniously, with established houses honing their own styles and up-and-coming artists contributing new viewpoints.

Here are the collections that made an impression:

GUCCI

Gucci is a continuum of craftsmanship, culture, and style, shaped by artisans, designers, and wearers across generations. This collection distills the house’s identity, past, present, and future, through its evolving codes and values.

At its core is sprezzatura, studied effortlessness, where precision meets play. Menswear fabrics merge into womenswear, suiting is softened by fluidity, and textures contrast across tweeds, mohair, coated wools, and bouclés. A palette of greens, greys, mauves, and browns unites the looks.

Spanning decades, silhouettes blend 1960s origins with modern influences. House motifs evolve, led by the iconic Horsebit, now celebrating 70 years in leather goods, jewelry, and accessories.

Set on a deep green interlocking G runway honoring Guccio Gucci, the show is elevated by an original orchestral score from Oscar-winner Justin Hurwitz, amplifying its cinematic, timeless vision.

ICEBERG

The Fall/Winter 2025 collection by ICEBERG is inspired by a blend of Irish knitwear history, English customs, and Italian attitude. James Long, the creative director, highlights the brand’s dedication to knitwear by fusing humorous transgression with classic tailoring.

The collection blends romance and rebellion, drawing inspiration from figures such as Mick Jagger and Marianne Faithfull. The use of muted colors with colorful accents, which strikes a balance between traditional and modern aesthetics, is indicative of this influence.

Check tailoring with faux leather-trimmed collars, ruffle-front dinner shirts, and ribbed knit dresses with spread collars and frilled skirts are essential components.

The color scheme, which combines bright red and blue hues with neutral tones, embodies a laid-back yet elegant urban aesthetic.

JIL SANDER

Jil Sander’s FW25 collection, the final by Lucie and Luke Meier, explored contrasts of light and darkness with shimmering textures, sculptural silhouettes, and punk-inspired elements.

Dominated by black, white, and gray, with flashes of pink, red, and blue, the collection featured sequin fringes, safety pin details, and shearling coats.

The Meiers’ departure marks the end of their eight-year tenure, leaving behind a legacy of refined minimalism with an avant-garde edge.

LUISA SPAGNOLI

The FW25 collection by Luisa Spagnoli emphasizes sophisticated beauty with a hint of understated seduction. The silhouettes are defined by impeccable tailoring, with somewhat oversized outerwear made from opulent materials like double cashmere, tweed, and crocodile print.

The collection’s depth is enhanced by the warm, rich cigar-hued palette, which produces an elegant yet carefree look.

The designs radiate timeless appeal by striking a balance between softness and structure, and the refined vision is completed with elegant styling and radiant beauty looks.

MARCO RAMBALDI

Marco Rambaldi’s FW25 collection combines a rebellious, modern edge with nostalgia for the Italian 1970s, continuing his investigation of inclusion, upcycling, and gender-fluid aesthetics.

Rambaldi, who is well-known for his elaborate crocheting and heart-shaped designs, uses strong forms, rich textures, and handcrafted details to reimagine classic bourgeois features. The collection challenges industry stereotypes while embracing a feminist vision that celebrates a variety of body forms and identities.

His designs, which combine the past and the future, provide a poetic yet rebellious interpretation of current Italian workmanship, solidifying his status as a modern fashion pioneer.

MARNI

Marni celebrates the transforming power of creativity by blurring barriers between a painting and a gown, an art gallery and a salon, the baroque and spray paint.

Fur flows like a monster from a fable, satin blossoms into flowers, and a wolf’s hide is turned into a perfectly fitted outfit. It challenges us to dream while remaining grounded in reality and imbued with creative fantasy.

It all started when Francesco Risso, Olaolu Slawn, and Soldier Boyfriend unexpectedly met over aperitifs on a foggy London evening. In The Pink Sun, a month-long artist residency that brought together the raw energy of underground culture and sumptuous history, they discovered common ground despite coming from opposite worlds.

MAX MARA

The heroine of Max Mara embraces a new romantic style and yearns for a love as fierce as the winds of Wuthering Heights.

Max Mara responds with urban rusticity and neo-gothic style. Classic shapes are redefined with leather or shearling sleeves, detachable quilted linings, and redingotes tightened at the waist.

Cropped coats give way to full skirts, while vintage britches serve as the inspiration for contemporary pants.

Earthy tweeds, double-face cashmere, and feather-light worsteds are available for military greatcoats, frock coats, capes, and clutch coats. She adopts gothic elegance as night falls by dressing in black velvets and boned bodices.

MISSONI

Under the creative guidance of Alberto Caliri, Missoni’s FW25 collection reimagines the house’s characteristic textures and patterns in a novel, intuitive way.

The collection, which emphasizes materiality and carefree elegance, reflects a free-spirited attitude toward clothing by fusing contemporary and nostalgia. Intricate designs, flowing lines, and rich knits honor Missoni’s history while embracing modern adaptability.

The collection embodies everyday luxury with a sophisticated yet unplanned look, highlighting Missoni’s enduring appeal in the ever changing fashion industry.

MM6 MAISON MARGIELA

The three main concepts of MM6 Maison Margiela’s FW25 collection, enlarge, reduce, and wardrobe, explore subversion and deconstruction.

The collection, which makes its standalone menswear debut at Pitti Uomo 107, reimagines traditional designs with structural twists, sheer overlays, and oversized jackets. It is a sleek, contemporary interpretation of Margiela’s tradition that defies fashion conventions with a timeless yet modern aesthetic.

MOSCHINO

Adrian Appiolaza makes his debut as design director of Moschino with the Fall/Winter 2025 collection Collezione 04, which combines the brand’s trademark humor with socially conscious commentary.

Grey wool skirts with enormous puffer coats and cushion headwear, raw denim with exposed basting threads, and other whimsical patterns are all part of the collection.

Save our Sphere, an environmental statement from the late founder Franco Moschino’s archives, highlighted the brand’s dedication to sustainability as the runway show came to a close.

PRADA

Prada’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection, unveiled at Milan Fashion Week, epitomized a fusion of sophistication and rebellious elegance under the creative direction of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons.

The collection showcased sharp tailoring and exaggerated proportions, reflecting a harmonious blend of classic and contemporary styles.

Materials such as wool gabardine, calico, and jersey were utilized to balance volume with precision, while ruching techniques cinched skirts, emphasizing the form without restriction.

A significant emphasis was placed on outerwear, featuring imposing fur pieces and structured coats. Notable designs included boxy, bear-brown pea coats cut at the thigh and trapeze-cut coats with a lacquered finish, presenting a modern yet timeless aesthetic.

The runway was designed by architect Rem Koolhaas, featuring a labyrinth of scaffolding that created an electric atmosphere, complementing the collection’s dynamic energy.

 

SPORTMAX

For Fall/Winter 2025, Sportmax reflects on past legacies, present realities, and future intentions.

Since its 1969 debut, the brand has embodied avant-garde experimentation. FW25 continues this legacy, reinventing contemporary wardrobe archetypes as everyday essentials.

Balancing dualities, ordinary and extraordinary, function and innovation, the collection subverts norms through materiality and technique.

Knee-high boots and laser-cut fringes create fluid, adaptive silhouettes, while soft-structured bags and modernist jewelry distort tradition, blending structure with movement.

Sportmax redefines limitless circularity, merging heritage and experimentation to capture the evolving spirit of the present with fresh, innovative vision.

VERSACE

Versace’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection, under Donatella Versace, fused classic Italian glamour with Western and punk influences. The runway featured leopard-print gowns, sharp suits, printed shirts with leather trousers, and bold accessories like studded gloves.

Dubbed Versace Superheroes, the collection aimed to instill confidence through bold prints, sharp tailoring, and striking silhouettes. Blending elegance with edge, it received praise for its modern yet powerful aesthetic.

VIVETTA

Vivetta’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection at Milan Fashion Week showcased whimsical trompe l’œil details, surreal botanical prints, and layered optical illusions.

Playful elements like scarves resembling ties and gloves mimicking manicured hands redefined classic silhouettes.

Blending romanticism with contemporary twists, the collection reimagined floral prints with berries, vegetables, and wild flora, offering a fresh take on elegance.

Stay tuned for Paris Fashion Week!

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