With a season full of inventiveness, craftsmanship, and distinctively Italian glitz, Milan once again demonstrated why it is the world’s fashion center, during Milan Fashion Week.
Designers demonstrated a brilliant fusion of tradition and modernity in everything from the accuracy of tailoring to the cutting-edge shapes. Every collection has a tale to tell, some with a strong sense of nostalgia and others with a bright outlook on the future.
The runways this season featured a bold blend of bold experimentation, elegant minimalism, and the carefree luxury that characterizes Milanese fashion.
We analyze some of the most captivating series that set the tone for the upcoming season in this roundup.
ALBERTA FERRETTI
In Progressive Romantics, Alberta Ferretti’s FW25 collection, Lorenzo Serafini makes his creative director debut.
The collection, which was inspired by Franca Sozzani, modernizes Ferretti’s romantic style by combining rigid tailoring with soft draperies. Serafini wants to respect its history while advancing the brand.
ANTEPRIMA
Wearable art and fashion are combined in Anteprima’s FW25 collection, PARADOX, which draws inspiration from Japanese artist Izumi Kato’s mysterious figures.
The collection’s large, unisex silhouettes made of cashmere, velvet, mohair, and winter mesh epitomize the “Modern Primitive” style. The earthy color scheme consists of deep purple, winter yellow, browns, and greens.
Kato’s themes are used to transform Anteprima’s iconic Wire Bags into artwork, giving them a whimsical yet enigmatic feel.
ANTONIO MARRAS
Antonio Marras, who is Sardinian, drew inspiration for his Fall/Winter 2025 collection from the rediscovered 1892 opera La Bella d’Alghero.
Pinstripe, Prince of Wales check, brocade, and jacquard are among the many materials used in the collection, which captures the beauty and textures of theatrical costumes from the 19th century.
By fusing fashion with art and history, Marras’s designs turn clothing into canvases for narratives.
BALLY
The Fall/Winter 2025 Bally exhibition resumed its investigation of Swiss precision and formality against the backdrop of Milan’s famous Torre Velasca. Wild aspects of texture and materiality gently interrupted this inquiry, producing a striking contrast.
Each item reflected Creative Director Simone Bellotti’s exploration of structure vs fluidity, a conflict that characterizes the collection’s core, and this interaction created a story that balanced discipline and liberation.
BLUEMARINE
Long after the last frame, the alluring femininity of Italian film endures, its grace and storm arousing the imagination and provoking fresh fantasies.
David Koma creates a story for Blumarine Fall/Winter 2025 that is firmly anchored in the complex heroines of Italian cinema. He imagines a muse molded by Sicily’s dark exoticism and the alluring exuberance of the women who bring it to life on screen, drawing on their fusion of romanticism and rigor.
The collection, which is set against the dark dunes of Stromboli, develops as a cinematic encounter in which David Koma’s modernist edge and Blumarine’s dreamy sensuality combine to produce a powerful interplay of the past and present.
DIESEL
Under the direction of Glenn Martens, Diesel’s FW25 collection combines deconstruction with street art, with a runway covered in three kilometers of graffiti fabric made by 7,000 artists.
The collection combines tweed, denim, and spray-painted components to create a youthful, rebellious vibe reminiscent of careless childhood happiness.
Diesel is revolutionizing modern fashion by pushing the boundaries of creativity.
DSQUARED2
Set against a backdrop of vintage limos and yellow taxis, Dsquared2’s FW25 collection celebrates its 30th anniversary with a daring blend of Canadian cowboys, disco queens, glam rockers, and leather rebels.
The performance embraced the brand’s eclectic, rebellious culture with partnerships like Magliano, Vaquera, Bettter, Ducati, and Kiss.
Petals with Pina Bausch-inspired designs offered a creative touch and represented uniqueness and expression.
ELISABETTA FRANCHI
The FW25 collection by Elisabetta Franchi honors bold, independent women who confidently embrace sexuality. The play, which is set in the opulent Palazzo Acerbi, exudes boldness and luxury.
The collection, which reimagines minimalism from the 1990s, strikes a balance between overt and restrained sensuality. Sharp shapes draw attention to the shoulders and waists, and the contrast between glossy and matte fabrics creates interest.
The style is defined by sleek knits, pencil skirts, biker jackets, and blazers with croc embroidery. Faux fur meets razor-sharp tailoring, topcoats hide cutaway skirts, and tight vinyl jackets add to the ultra-feminine appeal.
The Everywhere bag, pointed heels, and knee-high boots complete the dramatic yet elegant look, while a somber color scheme of black, coffee brown, and merlot heightens the drama.
EMPORIO ARMANI
Emporio, according to Giorgio Armani, is a place for artistic experimentation that combines formal accuracy with an open-minded mindset. Featuring playing card themes as embellishments, inlays, or prints on chiseled yet flowing forms, this season’s design welcomes fun.
The collection highlights careful textile research with its rich textures, which include printed velvets, elaborate jacquards, brushed animal prints, and washed wools.
Before reaching its climax in graphic black and white and deep black, accentuated by embroidery, the palette shifts from sandy neutrals to dusty blues, with red and vivid green as accents.
ERMANNO SCERVINO
The Fall/Winter 2025 collection by Ermanno Scervino redefines femininity as self-expression and strength.
Tailored herringbone blazers, corsetry-inspired belts tightening embroidered tube skirts, and shearling coats over chiffon dresses are examples of how artisanal craftsmanship creates forms that are both fluid and structured.
The collection honors women who shape their own stories by fusing beauty and contrast.
ETRO
Under Creative Director Marco De Vincenzo, Etro’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection combines art, mythology, and futurism, fusing modern design with antiquated iconography. For a classic yet cutting-edge look, the collection incorporates Egyptian gods and cosmic themes into brocades, silk chiffons, and jacquards.
A fanciful touch is added with embroidery inspired from fantastical zoology, which is the result of a partnership with Korean artist Maria Jeon.
Etro’s famous paisley designs, which highlight opulent materials and fine details, are embroidered onto flared trousers with a nod to the 1970s and used as macro prints on plaid suits.
The collection offers a new interpretation of bohemian elegance by reinterpreting Etro’s rich history through a contemporary vision.
FENDI
By exploring its archives and paying tribute to the lavish lifestyle of Silvia Venturini Fendi’s grandmother, Adele Casagrande, Fendi’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection commemorates the brand’s centennial.
The collection, which draws inspiration from the 1960s and 1970s, includes rich materials, wacky skirts with lettuce trim, and large sunglasses. A subject of metamorphosis represents Fendi’s development throughout a century by fusing tradition and modernity.
The line embraces innovation and modern design while paying respect to the past.
FERRARI
Inspired by the Officina, Ferrari’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection combines tradition, innovation, and craftsmanship.
Using sculptural knitwear, fresco-like leather treatments, rich fabrics, and trompe l’oeil denim, creative director Rocco Iannone reimagines Ferrari’s style.
Sleek lines with accentuated waists and curves are enhanced by a palette of warm hues and characteristic reds, symbolizing Ferrari’s progress while paying homage to its heritage.
GENNY
For Fall/Winter 2025, Sara Cavazza Facchini creates a new language of femininity by reinterpreting Genny’s archive. Whether printed, embroidered, or woven into jacquard mohair, the tassel, a sign of honor, appearances throughout.
As Yin and Yang are echoed by the merging of light and shadow, sculptural forms appear in peplum blouses and capes with deep-cut backs.
Midnight blue suits and double-breasted coats give a couture touch, while tartan, pink-accented herringbone, and warm camel coats pay homage to British tailoring. The tassel motif celebrates a strong and confident lady, embodying modern romanticism.
GIORGIO ARMANI
For Giorgio Armani, each collection is a return to his beginnings, reaffirming a changing yet honest style that remains grounded in reality. Rich, tactile materials such as velvet, cashmere, and jacquard silks soften purity and accuracy of line.
Diverse ethnic influences are incorporated into Armani’s style, which skillfully combines Southern and Eastern elements into sophisticated minimalism. These components resurface in elegant forms that reflect a timeless, light vision.
GIUSEPPE DI MORABITO
Alone with the Stars, Giuseppe Di Morabito’s FW25 collection, combines futuristic technology with medieval armor.
A humanoid robot named Ameca began the performance by reciting Sartor Resartus, establishing a theme of innovation and tradition.
In order to convey strength and elegance, the models donned corsetry, metallic flowers, black, twisted leathers, and crystal decorations. The collection solidifies Di Morabito’s ascent to fame, which is already favored by Zendaya and Lady Gaga.
Stay tuned for part two of MFW runway report!
